Appreciating Superstition in Daily Life
This article was adapted from original ideas published on Visit Naples and Amalfi coast Travel tips. Check out Sal’s BnB’s here.
The great Eduardo De Filippo, Naples’ beloved playwright and cultural icon, once said: “To be superstitious is to be ignorant, but not to be ignorant brings bad luck.” Or as he said with a knowing smile: “It’s not true, but I believe it.” These two contradictory phrases illustrate perfectly the Neapolitan attitude toward superstition-a curious mixture of scepticism, tradition and genuine belief.
We, Neapolitans, are famous for our warmth and love of life. We appreciate merry, sunny and gregarious aspects of human nature, but under this surface lies an equally important respect for all those invisible forces which may influence fortune, fate or even the minutest daily occurrence. The superstition of Naples is not a mere shadow of old wives’ fables; it enters into the very texture of life as much as the sea breeze which sweeps through the narrow streets.
A City Steeped in Legends and Rituals
No other city under heaven has so many tales, so many rites, so many legends to tell about superstition. From the Munaciello, who is sometimes helpful and sometimes mischievous (a spirit that is said to inhabit homes and is often portrayed as a little hunchbacked figure in a Franciscan habit), to the malocchio, or Evil Eye, which believes that a jealous stare can bring misfortune on one’s luck or health.
The Superstitions You’d Do Well to Avoid
Neapolitans take their signs seriously when it comes to steering clear of bad luck. Here are some of the common no-nos.
Table Taboos: Never overturn your bread, cross forks in the pot, give salt from hand to hand directly, or spill olive oil on the ground. Each act is thought to invite misfortune or quarreling.
Breaking a mirror is said to bring seven years of bad luck, a superstition that is not confined to Naples but is here held in peculiar dread.
Walking under a ladder has always been an admonition, for it would break the sacred triangle of the ladder and let in misfortune. Same is said for placing hats on the bed. Don’t do it.
Meeting a black cat is very different; there are places where it is lucky, but here, if one crosses your path, beware.
Making up your mind on Friday the 17th is quite in keeping with the Anglo-American fear of Friday the 13th; for Neapolitans, Friday the 17th is “un giorno nero,” a day when fortune turns against them.
Fighting Back the Evil Eye: Remedies and Rituals
For believers in malocchio, Naples provides a vibrant inventory of charms and rituals to fend off negative energy. The Neapolitan imagination has outdone itself in creating these protective customs.
The Red Horn (Il Cornicello): The undisputed king of amulets, the cornicello is a small, twisted horn-shaped charm, traditionally a vivid coral red but it’s not just about wearing it. The magic begins when the giver pricks the recipient’s palm with the tip of the horn, activating its protective power. Only then can the ‘corno’ truly do its job, shielding its wearer from envy and harm.
The Sign of the Horns: Making the mano cornuta gesture, signifying the horns, while saying “sciò sciò!” is an immediate way to drive away bad vibes and negativity.
Throwing Salt: A dash of salt cast over one’s left shoulder will supposedly blind the Evil Eye and chase away misfortune.
Touching a Hunchback: This may sound strange but touching the back of a hunchback is considered a very strong method for absorbing and neutralizing bad luck.
Rubbing Your Genitals: Perhaps not the most polite or public remedy, but it’s said to be an ancient, primal gesture to protect oneself from evil forces.
Rubbing a Horseshoe: Another typical sign of good fortune, rubbing a horseshoe is believed to draw in luck while pushing away negativity.
Where to Find Your Lucky Charm
To carry home a piece of Neapolitan magic, go to Via San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity artisans. Here, among the handcrafted cribs and figurines, you’ll find countless cornicelli — each one a tiny talisman bursting with tradition.
Superstition as a Way of Life
For a true Neapolitan, superstition is not an eccentric habit but an integral part of existence that involves everything. Men and women, animals, things and even parts of the human body. This is so much part of everyday life that it does not attract attention like the very pulse and heartbeat of the city does.
And if your lucky horn ever breaks? Don’t despair. It means it has done its job, taking the brunt of bad luck for you. If the tip snaps off, it’s said to herald the arrival of good fortune. A break in the middle? This indicates that the horn has saved you from evil. Just remember to keep safe the broken piece too. Bury it in a pot to which you have added soil from your garden.
Superstition in Naples manifests as respect, rather than fear. An introspective flirtation with those curious unknowns reminds us that, sometimes, we need just a little bit of mystery and belief to retain hope.
